Sukiyabashi Jiro

I guess no blog about food in Tokyo would be complete without writing about this celebrated sushi place. Ever since David Gelb’s documentary film “Jiro Dreams of Sushi ” was released in 2011, the hype of this Michelin 3 star establishment hit a global high resulting in more foreign visitors than local. A highly publicized visit from President Obama a few weeks ago only elevated it’s status making reservations slightly harder to come by.

The Japanese don’t really revel in such attention. It is definitely not easy to make a reservation. If you are staying at a hotel without a direct link to the restaurant, don’t bother asking. Calling them is useless. They never pick up the phone. Rather, get someone to go there in person. A 10.000 yen deposit per person is required to be made on the 1st day of every month for next month’s reservation. Come early to avoid being bumped. After they assign you a certain time and date for your reservation you will receive a piece of paper stating their rules. No shorts. No sandals. No T-shirts for male guests. No heavy makeup. No strong perfume. No taking pictures in front of the establishment. A rather strange set of rules but I guess if you are visiting someone’s home it would only polite to follow the rules of the host, no matter how strange.

Sukiyabashi Jiro is located in the basement of an old building in Ginza. Even with all the International acclaim, Jiro’s location remains modest and unpretentious.

I was lucky enough to visit the place with 2 friends and we were the only customers at the time.

Below you will find a picture of the menu. A traditional sushi restaurant will normally serve food in this order. The first half is their fixed menu that stays the same all year round. The second half is their seasonal menu. I found it interesting that they did not have salmon sushi on their menu (only salmon roe). Chef Jiro himself explained to me that traditional sushi doesn’t serve salmon in their menu. Traditional sushi menus mostly serve creatures of the sea. Salmon lives in both fresh and sea water. It was only later that salmon was added to sushi menus because the foreigners love it.

Below is a picture of my yellow tail sushi . We were recommended to eat with our hands instead of using chopsticks.

The semi fatty tuna below was also delicious. I noticed that after a few sushi pieces he would watch you closely as you devoured his creations, deciphering whether you are enjoying it or whether the sushi is the right bite size.

About half way through I noticed Jiro scrutinizing us again. This time probably to see if we were struggling and whether or not to make the rice smaller to ensure we will be able to finish the entire course.

When it was time for the sea urchin I wasn’t particularly thrilled since I’ve never really liked sea urchin. The smell always bothered me. This one however was exceptionally fresh that i actually enjoyed it.

Last but not least was the Egg (Tamago) which was sweet and tasted more like a dessert.

I am a big eater so the 18 course nigiri sushi wasn’t enough for me. I ended up ordering 2 more additional a la carte sushis costing about 2000 yen each.

In between all this I sneaked a picture of the masters Jiro Ono (left) and Yoshikazu Ono (right)

We were asked to move to a table for dessert as they prepared for another lunch. Dessert was a mouthwatering juicy melon with a cup of bitter Japanese tea to balance it out.

All this will set you back about 30.000 yen per person but I have to say overall it was a wonderful experience. The sushi was fresh and delicious (one of the best sushis I’ve tried so far) and we were treated with the utmost respect and most gracious manners. I have heard complains from people who claimed they were treated in a snotty manner by this establishment. But I think as long as you respect their art which they take very seriously, they will respect you in return. Follow their rules and customs and you will have a lovely experience. My verdict is that they definitely live up to the hype.

P.S : I did not hear the phone ring once during my lunch. Maybe there is no phone ?

Price : $$$

Sukiyabashi Jiro
4-2-15 Ginza, Chuo-ku , Tokyo 104-0061
Phone:+81 (0)3-3535-3600

FUKUZUSHI Roppongi, friendly sushi

At first I was somewhat skeptical of this sushi restaurant hidden in a small alley in Roppongi. The website was very english friendly and a lot of tourists wrote reviews about this restaurant that I was slightly afraid it would be a tourist trap. Luckily this was not the case.

Fukuzushi entrance
Fukuzushi terrace

Although not exactly traditional, Fukuzushi’s design is rather unique with lots of Japanese ornaments greeting you at the terrace before you enter into their dining space with a sushi bar and a few tables.

Fukuzushi interior

There are a few lunch sets to choose from. A standard Nigiri (10 pieces of sushi set), chirashi (assorted sashimi with rice in a box) and anagojyu (grilled sea eels and chopped omelet with rice in a box) costs around 2625 yen. A tekkadon (tuna sashimi with rice in a box) costs 3675 yen and A premium nigiri or chirashi costs 4725 yen.

I decided to try the premium nigiri sushi set while my friends decided to go a la carte.

The appetizers
The sushi set
The accompanying miso soup

 

The aburitoro (burned tuna sushi) and toro sushi ala carte

I have to say that the quality of sushi was way up there. It was extremely fresh and delightful. Everything on my plate was savory especially the toro,uni and anago.

If you ordered a set menu then you are escorted into the next room for some coffee and dessert which was a small almond pudding with caramel sauce.

The dessert

I’m really glad I decided to visit this restaurant. Here not only do we get exquisite sushi, the service is friendly. There are no old sushi masters glaring down grudgingly at you as you swallow your sushi, here the sushi chef actually speaks English and is genuinely happy to converse with you. Its really nice to be in an environment where everybody understands you for a change. So, if you are in town and looking for some moderately priced good sushi, this would be the perfect place.

Price : SS

Fukuzuhi Roppongi. Address 5-7-8 Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo. Telephone : 03 3402 4116

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

SUSHI MIDORI GINZA

Long lines are a definite view during lunch and dinner hours in front of this little sushi restaurant behind the Imperial Hotel. I had to visit during odd hours (around 3 pm) to finally secure a seat. Sushi Midori offers an extensive sushi menu which includes many roles (like california roll) not usually found in more traditional establishment and the prices are really cheap.

Part of the menu

A definite must try is the aburi (burned) sushi platter which costs a mere 840 yen and consists of salmon, tuna, squid, shrimp and enggawa (I haven’t found the english translation for this fish) all burned with some extra condiments including cheese. Absolutely delicious.

The aburi sushi platter

I also tried the regular sushi platter but found that my other favorite sushi restaurant Sushizanmai had fresher toro (tuna) and uni (sea urchin).

Sushi assortments platter

The california roll wasn’t too bad.

California roll

I have made up my mind that when I return, I will order 2 plates of the aburi sushi platter and will definitely be content.

SUSHI MIDORI GINZA. Ginza 7-108. Ginza Corridor 1-F. Phone : 5568-1212

Price : $

KYUBEI Sushi

 

 

After failing many times to get reservations at Sukiyabashi Jiro (the original one) because I was a foreigner and being suspiciously glared at by the chef in sushi Mizutani, the warm welcome at the Kyubei in Ginza was a nice change. I went there today for lunch without reservations and was lucky to immediately get seats on the second floor.

There were different set menus starting from around 75oo yen. We chose the omakase menu which was about 10.000 yen and surrendered ourselves in the hands of the sushi chef.

The friendly chef who even spoke a few words of Indonesian prepared our meal starting with some toro dabbed with some sweet soya sauce and the perfect amount of wasabi.

Toro sushi

Followed by a series of wonderful, delicious and fresh sushi dishes.

When it came to the shrimp he asked us if we wanted it fresh or slightly boiled. We asked which one was better and he decided on the slightly boiled version which was delicious.

The uni was so fresh it immediately melted in my mouth, as did the o-toro sushi.

0-toro sushi

The katsuo sushi prepared with some fresh garlic on top tasted unique. I’ve never tried anything like it before.

The katsuo sushi

But the highlight for me was the an ago (freshwater eel) prepared two ways : with salt and sweet soya sauce. I liked the salted version which also tasted very unique.

Anago sushi

Before the sushi rolls we were served some radish sandwiches which were refreshing.

The radish sandwiches

After that it was time for the sushi rolls.

The sushi rolls

Before desert, we were served some tamago-yaki (egg ommelette) which were really soft.

Tamago-yaki

And we had a choice of mocha or watermelon for desert.

The mochi desert

To summon things up, I had a wonderful time at Kyubei. Not only was the service warm and welcoming, the sushi was extremely fresh and absolutely delicious. I would definitely recommend this restaurant to you.

Price : $$$

KYUBEI Ginza

Address 8-7-6 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo
Telephone 03-3571-6523
Home Page http://www.kyubey.jp (In Japanese)
Business Hours 11:30am-2:00pm, 5:30pm-10:00pm; Closed on Sun

Lunch : SUSHI MIDORI at Meguro atre

The sushi belt

I did get an “Are you sure it’s safe to eat sushi right now?” from my friend when I suggested this sushi place for lunch today. I gave her an affirmative yes. I’ve gotten pretty exhausted at trying to determine which foods or drinks are radiation free and just decided to surrender my faith to God, or more likely the Japanese government who have confirmed that all food sold in restaurants and supermarkets are radiation free.

The delicious enggawa aburi

So, sushi it is. This bustling conveyer belt sushi restaurant nestled in the back of Meguro atre 2 has always been one of my favorites. Expect long lines during lunch hours but the wait is usually not too long. I love their assortment of aburi (burned) sushi and a definite ‘must try’ is their enggawa aburi which is to die for. Ask the waiters to order it for you if you can’t pick it out from the belt.

And the best thing of all, this plethora of deliciousness comes extra cheap. Once, after a group of five of us cleaned up 20 plates of sushi including some of their most expensive items like toro and uni, we payed a mere 8000 yen.